Metric incremental table saw fence

I’ve had a number of viewers contact me asking about making my Incremental Table Saw Fence, but in metric.  As you may know, the plans for it that I sell on Etsy are only available in imperial. But it isn’t that complex to convert it to metric, and recently a kind viewer who uses metric contacted me with a list of the parts he used to make his. He agreed to let me publish them here, so if you are in the majority who prefer metric then have a look at this and hopefully it will give you some ideas. If you haven’t already seen the fence I’m talking about, this won’t make sense, so you’ll want to watch my video about it here.

Here’s the email from Sascha:

Hi Jeremy,
I finally had the time to make you a complete list of all the material I used. Luckily I bought everything online so I can provide you with all the links for reference.
Since it’s a metric conversion I needed to make some adjustments:
* The threaded rod is an M16 rod, 2 meters long (altough I cut it to 1,5 meters. You usally get 1 meter or two meters). It has a travel distance of 2mm per turn. This makes it not as fine threaded as yours but its all I could find. Its still good enough to make half millimeter adjustment dents (I made four) and make even finer adjustments. I have to set the wheel to odd or even numbers before I lock the fence down because of this. It also means I had to use M16 nuts. Since they are not as wide as yours I welded all three thirds on to the flat bar.
* The holes I drilled were 5mm and 8mm. 5mm is a little wider than yours are but they can be tapped to M6 easily. For M5, which is closer to your holes, you need a not so common drill bit, something like 4,25 iirc.
* The flange bearings I found are 1mm wider than the threaded rod. I made up for this by using a strip of paper I wrapped around the bar, then carefully turned the ball bearing until it fitted on the paper. I guess it would be more convenient to use plastic or glue the paper on. But it worked for me just fine.
* I couldn’t find an aluminum extrusion quite like yours so I had to use what I could find. It is a little wider and not as tall. It still works good though. The one I bought was used with some kind of T-Track nuts with M4 threads. The screws for this needed to be 8mm long.
* For the position indicator I just used some small piece of sheet metal and screwed it on after bending it to my liking.
I hope that covers all the differences. Here is the complete list of material:
Square Tube 50mm (~2 Inches) by 3mm (~1/8 Inches)
M6 Setscrews
M16 Threaded Rod, 2mm increment for each turn
Flatbar, 40mm (~1 1/2 Inches) by 3mm (~1/8 Inches) Flatbar, 50mm (~2 inches) by 6mm (~1/4 Inches)
Angle Iron 75mm (~3 inches) by 7mm (~1/4 inch)
Angle Iron 50mm (~2 Inches) by 6mm (~1/4 Inch)
Round bar 20mm for the ball bearing
Spring Ball Assembly 12mm, no welding required, only drilling
Aluminum Extrusion×40-Nut-6.html
T-Track Nuts (sort of) M4
Ball Bearing 20mm
Flange Ball Bearing
Ball for the handle (welded a screw on with its end and used this ball for its end)
Regards, Sascha


Thank you Sascha for taking the time to put together this list! He also provided some photos of the finished fence, which looks amazing! Good choice painting the cam and flatbar spring green 🙂

If you have any questions feel free to email me, and if needed I can pass the question on to Sascha.

Woodworker. Metalworker. Maker.